In June, No Mercy: 120 Days Inside Florence’s Calcio Storico
Florence 22 July 2025 3 min read

In June, No Mercy: 120 Days Inside Florence’s Calcio Storico

Photographer Luca Cèpparo spent 120 days with the Verdi of San Giovanni, documenting the brutal Renaissance ritual that erupts in Piazza Santa Croce every June.

Calcio Storico Firenze

In June, No Mercy: 120 Days Inside Florence’s Calcio Storico

Every June, in the Renaissance heart of Florence, a centuries-old ritual erupts in Piazza Santa Croce. It is called Calcio Storico: a brutal, magnificent collision of sport, history, and identity.

Born in 1530 during the siege of Florence by the imperial troops of Charles V, it was then — and remains today — an act of defiance, pride, and unbreakable Florentine spirit.

Calcio Storico players training in the gym
Players train in the gym. ©Luca Cèpparo

Four teams represent the historic quarters of Florence, each fielding twenty-seven players:

Verdi (Greens) of San Giovanni

Azzurri (Blues) of Santa Croce

Rossi (Reds) of Santa Maria Novella

Bianchi (Whites) of Santo Spirito

Calcio Storico coach addresses players before the semifinal
On the day of the semifinal, the coach gathers the team at headquarters to name the 27 players who will take the sand. ©Luca Cèpparo

Matches last 50 minutes — no timeouts, no substitutions — and (almost) anything goes. The aim is simple: get the ball into the opponents’ net, by any means necessary.

Calcio Storico players resting in the cloisters of Santa Maria Novella
Before the historic procession that leads them onto the sand of Santa Croce, the players are taken into the cloisters of the Basilica in Piazza Santa Maria Novella, where they shelter from the heat, resting and focusing, fully living the sacredness of the moment. ©Luca Cèpparo

“In June, no mercy”: Luca Cèpparo’s photo essay

Born and raised in Milan, at 14 I experienced my first Palio in Siena, and at the same time I began to feel the absence of an authentic tradition in my own city — something to celebrate its history, culture, and values,” Luca told FUL Magazine.

The Verdi of San Giovanni enter the sand pitch
The Verdi of San Giovanni take the sand. ©Luca Cèpparo

I’ve always been drawn to Florence’s Calcio Storico, and in February of this year I began a photo essay with the Verdi of San Giovanni, deliberately focusing on just one of the four teams, with the idea of telling the story of Florence and its people starting from the gioco della palla (the ball game), in the city that claims to be its birthplace.

A moment from the Calcio Storico final in Piazza Santa Croce
A moment from the final, played against the Rossi of Santa Maria Novella. ©Luca Cèpparo

As I approached the visual writing of the reportage, I drew inspiration from contemporary Italian photography of the second half of the twentieth century, an era when great photographers traveled across Italy driven mainly by curiosity, experimenting with an unconventional photography that often placed unusual subjects at the center of the frame.

Without daring to draw comparisons, I wanted to observe and document, guided by the desire to discover.

Banner reading A giugno nessuna pietà at the Verdi training ground
The banner reading “A giugno nessuna pietà” (In June, no mercy), hung in front of the Verdi of San Giovanni’s training ground. ©Luca Cèpparo

That spirit allowed me to create a profound body of work, spanning 120 days, made up of photographs that seem far removed from the Calcio Storico as it is usually known, yet somehow capable of catching the viewer’s eye and feeding their curiosity.

Cover image: boxing gloves resting on the railing at the Verdi of San Giovanni’s training ground. ©Luca Cèpparo

Photographs by Luca Cèpparo.

www.lucacepparo.com

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