An Itinerary for Jewelry Lovers in Florence
The Tuscan capital is renowned for its craftsmanship across countless fields — from leather to, of course, jewelry. Following an itinerary devoted to the art of the goldsmith offers a fresh way to see the city, uncovering beautiful places and a few anecdotes from its history along the way. The unusual route we’re proposing — through museums and workshops — will satisfy both your curiosity about Florence’s goldsmithing traditions and your interest in the contemporary world of jewelry. And anyone with a hands-on streak, drawn to a more practical approach, will find something here too.
Ponte Vecchio
You can’t not begin with Ponte Vecchio, famous the world over for its jewelers. Once home to shopkeepers of every kind, from woodworkers to butchers, the bridge changed course in 1593, when Grand Duke Ferdinando I issued a decree — meant to restore the bridge’s dignity — assigning the shops to goldsmiths, jewelers and silversmiths. That is when Ponte Vecchio took on the look it still has today, with its distinctive wooden shutters known as madielle. Over the centuries it underwent various restorations, not least because of the floods, but it remained the home of gold and jewelry artisans — many of whom still work there today. There’s no better place to get to know the history and traditions of Florentine goldsmithing.
The historic museums: from Palazzo Pitti to the Bargello
For history lovers — those who want to trace the origins of jewelry as ornament and beyond — Florence’s famous museums will more than satisfy their curiosity. Let’s start at Palazzo Pitti, where you can admire a collection of jewelry made between the 17th and 20th centuries. It belongs to the section known as the Tesoro dei Granduchi (Treasury of the Grand Dukes), housed on the ground floor and mezzanine of the museum. Many of the pieces belonged to the Elettrice Palatina — the Electress Palatine, the last Medici heir — so it’s also a chance to learn more about the style of the famous Florentine dynasty. Among the treasures on display are a triton pendant by a Flemish goldsmith and a chased-gold ring that Cosimo gave to Eleonora. And there is, of course, much more.
Another museum where you can discover cameos and antique jewelry is the Bargello. In its Decorative Arts section you’ll find the Carrand collection, a window onto the styles and tastes of the second half of the 19th century. The Carrands, father and son, gathered everyday objects and jewelry — brooches, engraved stones — by Frankish, Lombard and Byzantine artists.
Famous portraits in which jewelry takes center stage
Another way to trace the meaning of jewelry in the Florence of the past is to study the details in the portraits of the great painters of the age. Take two examples: Raphael’s portrait of Elisabetta Gonzaga at Palazzo Pitti. The Duchess of Urbino wears on her forehead a scorpion set with a precious stone — a symbol of strength and resilience, and a warning to anyone who dared offend its wearer. Then there is Raphael’s portrait of Maddalena Strozzi at the Uffizi, who wears a necklace — a wedding gift from Agnolo Doni — whose stones each stand for a different quality of the sitter: vitality, purity and fertility.
Jewelry, from its very beginnings, was never merely something to adorn the body; it often carried a deeper message. It was worn to display wealth and power, to signal strength but also love. To say nothing of all the symbolism hidden within the different kinds of stones. Have fun spotting, across Florence’s museums, all the works that place jewelry front and center — and in doing so reveal something about the women, and the society, of those times.
The Museo del Gioiello — Atelier Alessandro Dari
For a more contemporary take on the art of jewelry, an essential stop for anyone visiting Florence is the Museo del Gioiello — Atelier di Alessandro Dari (Jewelry Museum). Set inside a 15th-century palazzo, it displays a wide collection of exclusive works by the master himself as well as by young artists who reveal the contemporary face of this craft. The museum is a journey through the goldsmith’s art and its history — a magical, spellbinding place in which to lose yourself among handmade wonders. The same premises are also home to the Goldsmith’s Workshop, where courses in sculptural goldsmithing are held.
In 2001 the atelier was recognized as a “Museo Bottega” (workshop-museum) by the Fine Arts department of the City of Rome.
Events in Florence
Anyone passionate about contemporary jewelry will be lucky to find themselves in Florence during two annual events. First, the Florence Jewellery Week, an event that explores the world of contemporary jewelry through a curated selection of international artists. It’s a moment of encounter and exchange among enthusiasts, artisans and professionals, showing where the craft is heading in terms of fresh ideas, new talent and new technologies.
The project was launched in 2005 by LAO — Le Arti Orafe Jewellery School, a professional goldsmithing school founded in 1985 by Giò Carbone, a goldsmith devoted to spreading the art of jewelry and its beauty. The school celebrates the union of craft and art, offering courses and seminars — some quite short — led by a range of professionals, from gemologists to designers, from draftsmen to engravers. It’s a creative place where you can truly breathe in the whole process of making a piece of jewelry.
Another annual event not to be missed is the International Handicrafts Fair in Florence (Mostra Internazionale dell’Artigianato). It brings together artisans from all over the world: here you can buy their creations but also watch them at work, marveling at their many different techniques. MIDA is the place for anyone hoping to find something unique and handmade — or simply to be inspired and surprised.
Courses and workshops
For those who’d rather get personally involved and experience Florence’s goldsmithing tradition first-hand — watching its practitioners at work and immersing themselves in the craft — there are plenty of historic workshops that welcome visits and run hands-on sessions. Some even give you the chance to make your own custom piece. We’ll point you to three, but Florence has a great many more.
There’s one place where the old techniques still fill the air and where know-how is passed down from hand to hand: the Casa dell’Orafo (Goldsmith’s House) on Vicolo Marzio, a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio. Inside a former convent, Florentine artisans work gold and precious metals. Step into this space and you can follow every stage of a piece’s creation, from the first sketch to the finished object.
As for schools, Alchimia — Contemporary Jewellery School runs both long and short courses and workshops, exploring the world of jewelry in the round, from theory to practice.
Officine Nora is a place where different artisans can share a creative space to exhibit their work, and also a workshop that runs courses, lessons and short experiences. Here you can become a jewelry maker for a day, experimenting with every stage of the process — giving free rein to your creativity or following traditional goldsmithing techniques.
Finally, for a truly authentic experience, we suggest letting instinct be your guide as you wander the city’s craft quarters — such as San Frediano and San Lorenzo — which still keep the art of jewelry alive.
Cover photo — “Master goldsmiths at work” — Florence Jewellery Week.
